
When freak waves recently soaked the beach at Cannes, nobody was as happy among the incoming festival crowd as Sam George, who with Greg MacGillivray directed the Hollywood Don’t Surf documentary that premieres May 15 at the Palais. “I thought it was no coincidence that it happened on a Wednesday, as in Big Wednesday, and my only regret is that the waves came a week early. We could have surfed at the beach to promote the movie and that would have been a Cannes first,” he said.
The film repped by ICM covers Hollywood’s long infatuation with surf culture, and it’s largely a study in futility. In the 50 years that Hollywood has been making surf films, audiences have never been as enthused as wave-crazed executives and filmmakers thought they would. Nobody learned that lesson harder than Steven Spielberg and George Lucas. Normally shrewd businessmen, they read John Milius’s script for Big Wednesday and got so swept up that they traded points on their own projects.
“They gave John points in Close Encounters of the Third Kind and Star Wars for a piece of Big Wednesday,” said George, who got Spielberg to reminisce about the debacle. “Steven says, kind of sharply, `We only did that once, and it worked out better for some than others.’ Everyone assumed Big Wednesday was going to be a big summer blockbuster, and when Steven and George read the script, they thought this was a beach-bound American Graffiti, with Jaws mixed in. Big Wednesday was a disaster, and Close Encounters and Star Wars each grossed around $600 million.”
How much did Milius make from his stakes in Close Encounters and Star Wars?
“John would only go as far as to say that it helped pay for his divorce,” George said. Milius still carries a heavy heart over the film’s failure. “John said it was more than just failure — it was like committing a political crime, which he said is worse than a regular crime,” George said.
In fairness to Milius, Big Wednesday went on to become a cult classic when it was released on VHS (Hollywood Don’t Surf co-director McGillivray filmed all the surfing action sequences for Milius). But we’re still waiting for the first true surf-driven film blockbuster. George — who co-wrote with director Stacy Peralta the seminal surf doc Riding Giants – said that surf movies did something important by redefining the way the world viewed Southern California — starting with Gidget in 1959 and continuing with 1960s AIP films like Beach Blanket Bingo.
“Before Gidget, the image of California was Steinbeck country,” George said. “The sun, the bikinis and the surfboards all made a statement about California culture. The films might seem trivial, but it’s no coincidence that the giant love-ins were held in San Francisco and not Topeka. Kids across the country saw this new bohemia and were drawn to it.”


as a person who is in the industry selling an action sports script or three, it is pretty grim out here. the money folks still do not see action sports as a viable market no matter how many surf shirts and skate shoes the kids buy. action sports are not taken seriously and that is why great complex films like big wednesday are cult hits after the fact. go figure. guess shawn white being on the cover of EVERY magazine is just a fluke. producer goons kill good films out of the same fear that keeps them from surfing in the first place. kooks in and outta the water.
amen brother.
isn’t it insane that the most targeted/desirable market out there cant get a movie made which would have integrity within the surf/skate/snow world. to get a action sports film made you MUST gut all the integrity/authenticity out of the picture and then the producer goons might finance the thing. this is the main reason for the failure of the genre and a huge disappointment for any young film maker that knows that these sports lend themselves to great dramatic story telling. till the money folks figure out that these films are hits waiting to be made we all must abide dude.
“Endless Summer”…Bruce Brown set the tone for others to follow. “Big Wednesday”, is one of the all time best films that speaks to the culture of the times. Attempted to produce a sequel but J.M. is just to difficult to deal with.
Damn straight, “Endless Summer”! The grand daddy. Bruce Brown virtually created a new genre. And while initial distribution may have been Brown four-walling beach town theatres and the Santa Monica Civic, over the years that movie made head-high profit.
And as for surfing being a “lifestyle” sport, enough of that faux alt lifestyle crap. That died a long time ago, in no small part owing to Hollywood’s manufacture of the California Dream.
HAHAHA Like Steven and George really care now!! Sheeesh whats a few million between friends.
Thanks for all the love for Point Break. I wasn’t a surfer when I wrote it, but I was swept up by the spirituality of this world I just wasn’t athletic enough to fully engage in. And I wasn’t any good at robbing banks either. -p
Endless summer should come into the mix here. If doccufeatures are almost considered mainstream films then Endless Summer could be regarded as a succesfull surfing movie. Although it is a doccy it had and still has a wide fan base, appealing to surfers and non surfers. Bruce Brown, I think perferctly blended surfing lifestyle and beach travel lifestyle which appeals to a wide range of audience.
didnt anyone see Surfer Dude?
Surfing is no longer a lifestyle. Now, it’s a commercialized hyped up activity infested with soccer moms, lawyers and Hollywood movie biz kooks. Opportunists like Sam George have paved the way for people who shouldn’t surf. No good movies were or will be made because movies are a contradiction of surfing. Surf happens in an uncontrolled natural moment for an individual and not for a group of wannabes with money, egos and editting room manipulation. It’s all about money now. It is all about profit like Quiksilver and American Express. Nat Young tried to make it a religion so he could make money like Jerry Fallwell. Just about every third commercail on TV has something to do with surfing. Hopefully more people will connect to surfing the web than surfing waves in the ocean. It’s all about sales: clothes, cars, techno gadgets and movie tickets and DVD’s. Hopefully people will lose their infatuation with the over-popularization of the once upon a time greatest escape from the evils of mankind. Hopefully Hollywood will find another for earning a quick buck by making fluffy renderings like Blue Crush and Big Wednesday. Movie people like Matthew McConeveryone (who’s carreer is so bad he calls the poparazzi on himself) and like John Stockwell will find other things to ruin. Films don’t make surf better.
Here’s a great statement:
“The more identity we lose, the less cool we become. The fewer outsiders want to be like us. A few more years, surf culture will shift back to the fringe where folks will once again leave us in peace — at least until the next big movie or underground star merges and starts the whole process over again.”
– Greg Heller (updated, March 2010)
The films from Hollywood have poluted the waves with bigger crowds and bigger egos.
Surfer Dude
It was so heartbreaking to see Blue Crush in the same text with Point Break.
I loved learning that Milius made the bucks through the points swap with Lucas and Spielberg…kinda like letting both those guys go on the first 2 waves of the set, because you know the third wave is perrrrfect! (Can you see it coming out the back, swinging wide?)
May I add to the discussion about Hollywood surf films? Not that documentary film making is not complicated, but it has the advantages of a smaller crew, and it can be a far more spontaneous process, and stays focused on the present, which is a lot of what surfing is about too. Less hands are on it, kind of like not having too many people at the same break. Hollywood film making is more like planning a war, there has to be the crew, the permits, the food, the vehicles, the actors, the office, the stuff! etc. None of that is easy, it is all planned chaos, like figuring out how to get one good wave at Malibu on an 8 foot day. Surfing is about being in the present, the moment, Hollywood film making is not…it recreates a reality, a reality which is captured in surf documentaries.
I think the successful Hollywood surf film will get it right when it stops trying to to be about surfing and more about what makes people tick, like “Raging Bull”, or “The Deer Hunter”. Too bad we did not figure this out earlier when Booby De Niro was younger, eh? Surfing should just be part of what is a natural part of the story…like boxing or deer hunting. That way you are not suffering through most of the movie waiting to see Dora and Noll stunt double for Darren and Mitchum, or Hamilton for Jan Michael Vincent, at the ranch yeah? (Don’t go onto that debacle with McConneghy…he did not even know who shaped the boards he “rode”. Kook!) Don’t we as surfers suffer through those acting parts until we get to the surf scenes, yeah, just like when we are waiting for a good swell? It’s our nature. And I hate to say it but consider as a best to date Hollywood surf movie, “Lords of Dogtown”, and yeah you could say skate boarding, but it was about surfers, not all historically true, but still you got the idea of a sliver of surf culture in that time and place, and the passion for surfing and what it meant to those kids.
The successful surf movie made by Hollywood will not be recognized as a surf movie, but as a movie, like Raging Bull. (I am talking in terms of artistic, Apocolypse Now”, success, not Star Wars box office success..) It will have beautifully photographed depictions of the action, think of the black and white slo-mo Michael Chapman/Scorsese used to show La Motta/De Niro when he was in the ring, great acting, and it will “simply” be great filmaking. Any surfing will be an endearing bonus.
Having said all this, big shout out for “Invasion! From Planet C”, it is the best surf movie in the universe, it is out of this wold.
any thing (movie, etc.) which would bring more people into surfing would not be in the best interest of surfers, unless of course you are in the surfing business.
oh, this is a moviemakers website…what’s the opposite of preaching to the choir. I just got a good idea for a story involving a surfer…
If this is really an in depth doc, they’d find the B&W Bobby Vinton movie where he wore shoes w his trunks.